Afternoon Tea in Borneo: From 7-Star Luxury to $2 Street Sips

Borneo is a land of extremes. One day, you’re trekking through humid jungles looking for orangutans, and the next, you’re sitting in a gold-clad lobby sipping Earl Grey.

If you're a Brit like me, there's no way that this doesn't appeal. The warm, homely feeling of a hot cuppa juxtaposed with the exciting Bornean landscapes was a wonderful experience that I recommend everyone has at least once.

But afternoon tea in Borneo doesn't have to be a $100 affair. Will you want the full white-glove treatment at the world-famous Empire Brunei? Or would you prefer a local $2 "Kaya Toast" experience in a Kota Kinabalu backstreet? I’ve broken down the best spots for every budget.

The Ultra-Splurge: 

The Empire Brunei (Bandar Seri Begawan)

If you’ve read my guide on visiting The Empire on a budget, you know this place is the pinnacle of Bruneian luxury. Their afternoon tea is served in the Atrium, a space so large and gold-decked it feels like a royal palace.

• Giant marble columns, views of the South China Sea, and live piano music.

• $35 BND ($26 USD / £20) per person for the weekend set.

• This is only available on Saturdays and Sundays (3:00 PM – 5:30 PM). You must book via email at least 48 hours in advance as it fills up with locals. One set is very filling; you can share if you aren't starving.

The Sunset Tea: 

Shangri-La Tanjung Aru (Kota Kinabalu)

In Sabah, the afternoon tea at the Shangri-La is all about the location. It’s served in the Lobby Lounge, which looks directly out over the gardens and the ocean.

• Breezy, tropical, and sophisticated. It’s the best place in KK to hide from the afternoon heat.

• RM 128 net per set for two persons ($27 USD / £21).

• This works out to just $13.50 USD per person. It is the ultimate "Budget Luxury" hack in KK. No need to stay at the resort. Tell the security gate you are heading to the Lobby Lounge.

The Colonial Classic:

English Tea House, Sandakan (My Personal Favourite)

If you’re heading to see the orangutans in Sepilok, you’ll likely pass through Sandakan. This restaurant sits on a hill overlooking the bay and feels like a time capsule from the 1920s.

• Croquet on the lawn, white wicker chairs, and proper scones with clotted cream.

• Approx. RM 70 per person ($15 USD / £11) for the Classic Tea Platter.

• Use Grab or InDrive to get here. Don't try to walk up the hill in the Sandakan humidity unless you want your tea served with a side of heatstroke.

The "Real" Borneo Tea: 

The Kopitiam Hack (Budget Choice)

For the true "AtoBe" experience, skip the hotels and head to a Kopitiam (traditional coffee shop). In Malaysia and Brunei, "Afternoon Tea" isn't a silver tower of cakes—it's Teh Tarik and Kaya Toast.

• Where to go in KK: Fook Yuen Cafe (Gaya Street). Order the Roti Kahwin (Cold butter and Kaya jam).

• Where to go in BSB: Jing Chew (Gadong). It’s a Brunei institution.

• $2 - $4 USD (£1.50 - £3).

• High energy, plastic stools, and the best tea you’ll ever have for under five dollars.

Next Steps

If you are planning to travel from Brunei to Kota Kinabalu by bus after your afternoon tea, get your passport ready. Because of the way the borders weave in and out of the Malaysian state of Sarawak, this 6-hour journey involves 4 border crossings and a whopping 8 passport stamps in a single afternoon.

It is a "Passport Party" like nowhere else on earth, but there is a major catch: if you have a sim card for only one of the countries, you won't have any signal on an extremely long bus ride.

I use Saily to stay connected. Saily is incredibly reliable in SE Asia. You can pre-load both a Brunei and a Malaysia plan onto a single eSIM before you leave so that your signal switches automatically across all 4 of the border crossings. Access Saily: HERE.

How to See Proboscis Monkeys in Brunei for $15 (The Waterfront Boat Hack)

And why you shouldn't pay $90 for a "River Safari" tour.

If you’ve been researching a trip to Brunei, you’ve probably seen the "River Safari" tours listed on major travel sites for $85 to $120 per person. They promise air-conditioned vans, "professional" guides, and hotel pickups.

But there’s a better way.

You don’t need an expensive tour desk to see Borneo’s famous "Big-Nosed" monkeys. In fact, you can do the exact same 1-hour river loop, including a view of the Sultan’s Palace and the world’s largest water village, for just $15 USD.

Here is the exact "Waterfront Hack" I used to see wild proboscis monkeys for 20 BND.

The $15 vs. $100 Reality Check

In Bandar Seri Begawan, the mangroves are literally a 15 minute boat ride away from the city center. You aren't paying $100 for the monkeys; you’re paying for the marketing and the van. 

By going straight to the source, you cut out the middleman and put money directly into the hands of a local family.

For an official river safari, here's what to expect:

• $85 - $120 USD
• Large group
• Fixed schedule
• Required to book in advance

The reality is that you don't need to do this. Here's what I did to save costs, spend my money more locally, and have a more unique experience.

How to Pull Off the Waterfront Hack (Step-by-Step)

1. Find the "Frame" Jetty

Head to the Bandar Seri Begawan Waterfront (Jalan McArthur). Look for the giant "Brunei" picture frame near the Yayasan Mall. This is the unofficial hub for the local water taxis.

2. The Negotiation Script

You don't need to hunt for a boatman; they will find you. As soon as you look like a tourist near the water, a driver will approach you.

Use this exact script to get the $15 rate:

"Hi, I'm looking for a 1-hour tour to see the proboscis monkeys and a quick loop of the Water Village (Kampong Ayer). Can you do it for $30 BND for the two of us?"

• The current fair rate is $20–$40 BND per boat (not per person!). If you are two people, $40 BND is roughly $15 USD each.

3. The Route: What’s Included?

A standard 1-hour hack tour includes:

• The Mangroves: Your driver will head upriver toward the dense mangroves where the monkeys live.

• Istana Nurul Iman: You’ll pass the Sultan’s Palace. From the water, you get an incredible view of the gold domes that you can’t see from the road.

• Kampong Ayer: On the return trip, they will zip you through the stilts and give you a run-down of the floating infrastucture.
  
  

The Secret Ingredient: Timing

The most important part of this hack isn't the price. It's the time.

Go at Golden Hour (4:30 PM – 5:30 PM). Proboscis monkeys are most active as the sun begins to set because they move toward the riverbanks to find trees to sleep in. Plus, the boat ride back toward the mosque at sunset is the best photo you’ll take in Brunei.

What to Bring

• Binoculars: The monkeys stay high in the canopy. If you don't have a pro-zoom lens, a cheap pair of travel binoculars is essential. If you're planning on moving on towards Kinabatangan after Brunei, you'll thank me for getting yourself a pair of these.

• Small Notes: Have $10 and $5 BND notes ready. Most boatmen won’t have change for a $50.

If you are comfortable with a bit of "DIY" negotiation, the Waterfront Hack is the absolute best way to see Brunei’s wildlife. It’s faster, cheaper, and far more adventurous. 

If you're not feeling quite as adventurous, Klook offers the best pre-booked proboscis monkey tour on the market at roughly $20-40 USD per person cheaper than other providers. Click HERE for the tour.

Ready for more Brunei Budget Hacks?

Check out my guide on How to Visit the 7-Star Empire Hotel for the Price of a Coffee HERE or my 1-Day Budget Itinerary for Bandar Seri Begawan HERE.

Getting the Bus from Agadir to Taghazout: Cost, Schedule, and Budget Guide

 Getting the Bus from Agadir to Taghazout: Cost, Schedule, and Budget Guide

The Budget Traveler's Surfing Logisitics

A Note on Value: Taghazout is Morocco's primary surfing hub, but getting there from Agadir can be confusing and unnecessarily expensive. We break down the absolute cheapest options - the local bus and the Grand Taxi - to ensure you save your Dirhams for the perfect surf lesson or budget stay.

Option 1: The Local ALSA Bus (The Cheapest Way)

The local bus system (run by ALSA) is the single cheapest way to get to Taghazout. This is the our recommended route.

• Look for Bus Lines L32 or L33.

• The buses depart from the city terminal, usually located near Place Salam in the Abattoir district, which is north of the main Souk El Had.

• The fare is incredibly cheap, costing only 7.5 MAD to 10 MAD (approximately £0.60 – £0.80 USD).

• The ride takes about 35 to 45 minutes from the city center.

• The buses run frequently, usually every 30 to 45 minutes from early morning (around 6:30 AM) until early evening (around 8:30 PM).

Option 2: The Shared Grand Taxi

The Grand Taxi is faster than the local bus, but requires patience and negotiation.

• You can catch a shared Grand Taxi from the same terminal area as the buses (near Place Salam / Abattoir district).

• A seat in a Grand Taxi costs 10 MAD per person. This is a fixed price.

• The Rules: Grand Taxis run on the communal system: they will not leave until they are completely full (usually 6 passengers). You may have to wait.

• You can choose to pay for all the empty seats if you are in a rush. If you are a pair and two seats are free, you pay the driver 30 MAD total (10 MAD for your seat + 20 MAD for the two empty seats).

Where to Avoid Transport Scams

Beware of the biggest transport scam: the private airport taxi.

• Grand Taxis parked outside Agadir Airport (AGA) will quote high, fixed prices for the ride to Taghazout (around 230 MAD – 300 MAD). Do not take this taxi if you're looking to travel on a budget. The public transport is surprisingly good in Morocco.

Final Verdict

• The cheapest and most reliable way to get to Taghazout is the local ALSA bus (L32/L33). It is reliable, cheap, and gets you to the surf town in under an hour.

• If you're planning on heading south to the desert after seeing Taghazout, check out our guide HERE

Pakse, Laos Guide: Best Budget Hostels, Local Food & Transport

Pakse, Laos Guide: Best Budget Hostels, Local Food & Transport

Pakse Town - More Than Just a Stopover

A Note on Value: Many travelers treat Pakse as nothing more than a functional hub to start the Bolaven Plateau loop. This is a mistake! Pakse is the ultimate cheap, friendly, and authentic Laotian town. We break down the absolute cheapest places to sleep, what to eat for under $1 USD, and how to master the local transport.

Where to Stay in Pakse

Accommodation here is among the cheapest in Southeast Asia. You will find excellent value.

Top Budget Hostels (The Best Value)

Hostelworld and Booking.com reviews confirm these are the budget champions:

• Sanga Hostel: Consistently top-rated (9.8/10). Known for excellent social atmosphere and location near the river. Cheapest beds start around $4.60 USD.

• Pakse Backpacker dorms & restaurant: Known as the most affordable spot. Cheapest beds start around $2 USD per night.

• Anou Hostel: Excellent price-to-performance ratio, new and clean facilities, and offers free breakfast.

Top Budget Guesthouses (For Privacy)

For couples or those wanting privacy, guesthouses offer incredible value.

• Dee-Dee's Guest House: Clean, great English-speaking staff who arrange cheap transport, and rooms start as low as $7 USD per night.

• Intouch Riverside Hotel: A great value option near the river, known for helpful owners and excellent staff.

Eating Cheaply: Where the Locals Eat

You can eat incredibly well in Pakse for less than $3 USD per meal.

The Best Street Food & Markets

• Daoheuang (Dao Heung) Market: This is the largest, most famous market in Southern Laos. It's bustling with activity and the best place to find cheap Lao food, sticky rice, and spices.

• Khao Jee (Baguette Sandwiches): Thanks to the French influence, these baguettes filled with meat/pâté are everywhere, making a satisfying lunch for around 6,000 KIP (less than $1 USD).

Budget Local Meals

• Noodle Shops: Places like Lankham Noodle Shop offer massive bowls of pho and noodles for around 15,000–25,000 KIP ($1.50–$3 USD).

• Drinks: BeerLao is extremely cheap, costing around 10,000 KIP (under $1 USD) for a large bottle in local spots. BeerLao also ranked in the top 3 beers in my official beer rankings for South East Asia.

Local Transport in Pakse Town

• Tuk-Tuks: Tuk-tuks should cost you no more than 5,000 – 10,000 KIP (around $0.50 – $1 USD) for a ride across town. Never accept the first price; bargaining is expected for short distances.

• Motorbike Rental: If you need to cover more ground or are preparing for the Bolaven loop, motorbikes start from 60,000 KIP ($3.50 USD) per day. Please bear in mind that the roads in Laos are peppered with potholes, underage drivers, and rickety wooden bridges. I would only recommend motorbiking in Laos to experienced motorcyclists.

Next Steps: The Bolaven Loop & Onward Travel

Pakse is the perfect base for adventure.

• Your real reason for being here is the Bolaven Plateau. Click HERE for our Southern Laos travel plan.
  
  

• Planning your departure to the famous 4000 Islands? Click HERE 

The Empire Brunei Hotel Day Pass Cost: Visiting Brunei's 7-Star Resort on a Budget (Is It Worth It?)

 

The Empire Brunei Hotel Day Pass Cost: Visiting Brunei's 7-Star Resort on a Budget (Is It Worth It?)

A Note on Experience: The Empire Hotel is legendary. It was built for the royal family and has a genuine "7-star" feel. But if you're on a backpacker budget, paying $400 USD a night is out of the question. We break down the ultimate budget hack: how to visit, what it costs for a day, and why this is the best money you'll spend in Brunei.

Why The Empire is the Ultimate Budget Hack

Brunei is famous for its staggering wealth, and The Empire is the single most luxurious place to witness it.

• This hotel was literally built for the royal family. Stepping into the gold-plated main lobby, walking the sprawling, perfect grounds, and seeing the massive pools gives you an unbelievable, free taste of luxury. The luxury feels legitimate.

• For the price of a mid-range hostel bed, you can access the resort's stunning amenities for an entire day.

The Budget Luxury Hack: The Day Pass Breakdown

The Free Visit (Walk-in)

You do not need to pay an entrance fee to walk through the main atrium, the ground-floor restaurants, and the stunning public areas.

• Take the bus or a shared Dart taxi out to the hotel. Wander the lobby, explore the beautifully manicured grounds, and watch the sunset from the public bar area near the ocean for free.

The Day Pass Cost & Amenities

This is the recommended budget spending for ultimate luxury.

• Day Pass Cost: The hotel often sells a day pass to use the pools, recreational facilities, and beach access. Expect the pass to cost around BND $25 (approximately $18.75 USD).

• For under $20 USD, you gain access to a truly luxurious resort pool and oceanfront area for an entire day. It is absolutely worth the price and is a highlight of any trip to Brunei.

• Contact the hotel's reception directly to confirm the availability and price of the day pass before you go, as prices can change.

Transporting to The Empire Hotel on a Budget

The hotel is located in Jerudong, approximately 15–20 kilometers outside of BSB's center, which makes transport essential.

• The Absolute Cheapest (Local Bus): This takes longer (approx. 45-60 minutes), but is cheapest. Look for Bus Route 57 or 58 from the BSB Terminal, heading toward Pasar Jerudong via Rimba/Empire (Routes 57 and 58 both service the area). The fare is the standard BND $1.

• Dart App: Use the local ride-hailing app, Dart. This is the fastest, safest, and most straightforward option.

  • Estimated Cost: Expect to pay around BND $15–$25 for a one-way trip, depending on traffic and the surge rate.

The local buses stop running early (before 7:00 PM), so Dart may be your only option for getting back to BSB in the evening.

The Rest of the Day

Klook offers a brilliant half-day tour of BSB which would show you the rest of what this brilliant city has to offer. Here's the most budget-friendly tour of BSB listed on Klook: Click Here

Final Verdict

The Empire Hotel Day Pass is one of the best budget luxury experiences you can have in Southeast Asia. It is a must-do and a highlight of any trip to Brunei.

• Planning your full day in the city? See our budget itinerary for the capital HERE

• Ready to leave Brunei? The cheapest (and most painful) way to cross the border is by bus. I would recommend using a flight hacker like Kiwi to compare the best prices flying from BSB to other parts of the island.

Bandar Seri Begawan in One Day: Is Brunei’s Capital Worth the Stopover? (Budget Guide)

 

Bandar Seri Begawan in One Day: Is Brunei’s Capital Worth the Stopover? (Budget Guide)

A Note on Value:  While Brunei is famous for oil wealth and expensive cars, there is a lack of information online about what to do there, leading many budget travelers to skip it. Is spending a single day in the quiet capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), worth the cost and time? The Verdict is Yes. You can see all the highlights in one, well-planned day for very little money.

Budget Transport: The Secret to Saving Money in Brunei

Forget the expensive taxis and private vehicles. BSB's downtown core is easily conquered for less than $5 USD.

The Local Bus (The Cheapest Way)

Brunei has a simple franchise bus network, and the fare is a fixed BND $1 (approx. $0.75 USD) per ride, regardless of distance.

• This service runs from 6:00 AM but stops running early (by 8:00 PM, and often earlier at 6:00 PM). Plan your sightseeing to finish before dark.

• Most routes begin and end at the bus terminal on Jalan Cator downtown. Look for the bus number and destination displayed clearly on the windscreen.

Water Taxi (The Budget Ferry)

Water taxis are small speedboats that operate along the Brunei River.

• Cost Anchor: A ride across the river to the Water Village costs as little as BND $1 per person.

• Value: This is a cheap and scenic way to navigate the city's waterfront and explore the famous stilt village.

Ride-Hailing Alert

The main ride-hailing app in Brunei is Dart. Taxis are metered (starting at BND $3.50) but are nearly impossible to hail outside the airport or major hotels. Use Dart only as a backup if you miss the 6 PM bus cut-off.

The Morning Itinerary (Walking and Culture)

You can walk to all of the major downtown sites from the central bus terminal.

• Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque: Start your day here. This iconic mosque features a stunning golden dome and reflecting pool. Entry is free (check the strict visitor times/dress code).

• The Royal Regalia Museum: This free museum showcases the Sultan's coronation items and gifts. Entry is free and makes for a great 1-2 hour stop to escape the midday heat.

• Tamu Kianggeh Market: The local, open-air market by the river.

The Afternoon Adventure: Mosques and Monkeys

• Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque (The Largest): This magnificent mosque with 29 golden domes is a must-see. It requires a short bus ride.

  • Take a bus (Bus #1 often runs this route) from the central bus station. Cost is only BND $1. Ask the driver to drop you off near "the Mosque."

  • Ensure you dress modestly (robes are often provided for free if needed). The gardens and exterior are a major highlight.

• Kampong Ayer (The Water Village): Take a BND $1 water taxi across the river. This is the world's largest stilt village. Explore the boardwalks and visit the Cultural Gallery (free entry).

• Proboscis Monkey Spotting: This is your only major expense. Hire a water taxi driver at the waterfront for a mangrove tour to see the rare Proboscis monkeys and crocodiles.

  • Negotiate hard. The price is often quoted around BND $20–$30 for a private, hour-long boat trip, but often starts higher. This is your high-cost, high-reward item.

The Budget Luxury Hack (The Day Pass)

If you want to spend the entire day relaxing in luxury, there is a specific budget optio

n. The Empire Hotel is often referred to as one of the world's only '7 star hotels'. 

• The Day Pass: The hotel often sells a day pass to use the pools and recreational facilities (usually excluding the gym). This costs around BND $25.

• Click HERE to view our guide to having a day of royal luxury in Brunei for less than $20 USD

Final Verdict and Logistics

The Final Word: Yes, a single day in BSB is absolutely worth it for a budget traveler. It is one of the only places in the world where you can spot Proboscis monkeys, or live like royalty on a budget.

• Next Stop: Getting to Kota Kinabalu by bus

Overnight Bus from Milan to Rome: Tickets, Cost & Best Companies (The Budget Traveler's Guide)

Overnight Bus from Milan to Rome: Tickets, Cost & Best Companies (The Budget Traveler's Guide)

Why pay for a night in a hotel when you can save money on both accommodation and transport simultaneously? The Milan to Rome overnight bus isn't just about saving money; it's a strategic move to maximize your travel budget and time. 

When we visited Milan, the only accommodation left on the Saturday night were all priced in the €120+ price range for two people. We were young, stupid, and in way over our heads; that was until I had the bright idea to look at overnight buses. We took one look at the price and decided it was time for a trip to Rome. We actually loved the idea so much that we booked tickets with the same company from Rome up to Bergamo!

Let's break down the exact logistics, ticket prices, and best operators to ensure your journey is efficient and comfortable.

The Budget Traveler's Strategy: Why Choose the Overnight Bus?

The decision to take the overnight bus is a win for your wallet.

• While Italy's trains are fast, they are expensive. The bus is the most reliable way to cut transport costs.

• By traveling while you sleep, you free up an entire day for sightseeing and save the cost of a hostel or hotel room for the night. This double saving is the core appeal of the overnight route.

• The Journey Time: Plan for the bus journey to take between 7 and 9 hours, depending on the company's route.

Booking Your Ticket: Companies and Costs

The primary goal is to book your ticket early, as the cheapest fares sell out fastest.

Top Budget Bus Operators

• FlixBus (The Reliable Giant): The company we used for both of our overnight buses in Italy. FlixBus offers frequent, direct overnight services and is known for clean coaches and reliability. This is your safe choice.

• Itabus (The Lowest Price): Itabus often undercuts FlixBus with aggressive promotional pricing. While user reviews can be mixed, if you find a fare significantly lower than the competition, it might be worth the gamble.

Price Anchors and Booking Tips

• Average Cost: Tickets typically range from €9 to €25 when booked a few weeks in advance. Look for fares below €15 for the best deal.

• Best Booking Method: To secure the lowest fare, you need to check multiple providers simultaneously.

Journey Logistics: Stations and Arrival

Knowing exactly where to board and where to arrive is critical for a smooth overnight journey.

Departing Milan

The most common departure points for the Rome route are:

• Milano, Autostazione Lampugnano: This is a major intercity terminal and is easily reached via the Milan Metro (M1 line).

• Milano, San Donato: Check your ticket carefully, as this is another common stop used by buses connecting from other parts of Italy.

Arriving in Rome

You will almost certainly arrive at:

• Roma, Autostazione Tiburtina: This is the main bus terminal. It is perfectly situated right next to the Tiburtina train station, which has a Metro stop (B line), along with a few options for baggage drop in case you're just looking to visit for the day.

• Arriving in Rome around 6:00 AM – 7:30 AM is ideal. Drop your bag off, and take the opportunity to explore the main tourist sites before the hordes of crowds descend upon them.

Is the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre Worth the Price? (Full Budget Cost Breakdown & Feeding Times)

Is the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre Worth the Price? (Full Budget Cost Breakdown & Feeding Times)

The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is the most famous place to see Borneo's Orangutans. But is the RM 30 entrance fee plus the travel worth it for a budget traveler? We break down the mandatory fees and the non-negotiable feeding schedule that determines if your visit is a success or a disappointment.

Full Budget Cost Breakdown (The Mandatory Fees)

Mandatory Fees:

• Foreigner Entrance Fee: This is RM 30 (approximately £5.50 or $7 USD). This single ticket is valid all day, allowing you to attend both feeding sessions.

• Camera Fee (Crucial Hidden Cost): This fee is RM 10 (approximately £1.70 or $2.30 USD). This fee is mandatory for any device that takes photos, including mobile phones and GoPros.

• Locker Fee: Budget RM 1 for a locker, which is required for storing bags and backpacks before you go onto the viewing platform.

Time Slots (The Key to Seeing Orangutans)

The question of whether it's "worth it" is entirely dependent on your timing. The orangutans are wild and free to roam; they only come to the platforms if they feel like grabbing a snack.

• Morning Feeding: The first feeding session is at 10:00 AM.

• Afternoon Feeding: The second feeding session is at 3:00 PM.

Plan to arrive before 10:00 AM, then use the time between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM to visit the neighboring Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre or explore the trails, returning for the 3:00 PM feed.

We managed to catch a mother and her tiny baby during the morning feeding slot. It was absolutely adorable seeing the little one clinging to its mother's back and crawling around her body whilst she stopped for a snack. It was a really heartwarming experience.

Cheapest Transport to Sepilok from Sandakan

Sepilok is about 25km from Sandakan (the nearest city hub). Skip the expensive tour packages - it's very simple. 

There is a local bus which runs 4x per day, but in Malaysia, Grab taxis & scooters are so cheap when you consider how convenient they really are. Expect to pay around RM 25 for the ride.

In the end, we chose to rent a moped, as we did for most of our Southeast Asia itinerary. If your goal is truly flexible, budget-friendly sightseeing across multiple stops, you simply cannot beat the cost and freedom of hiring a scooter. Just remember to check your travel insurance covers motorbike rental before you start the engine!

Borneo Travel Advice!

Your visit to Sepilok is just one part of the Sabah adventure. Check out some of pur other Borneo guides below:

• The Jungle Experience: If you are coming from the river or going next, you need to plan that long journey. Click HERE to see our guide on travelling to the Kinabatangan river.

How to Get to Kinabatangan River from Kota Kinabalu (Budget Route & Cheapest Transfer Guide)

The Budget Traveler's Kinabatangan Dilemma

You've made it to KK, but the Kinabatangan River, home to Borneo's famous wildlife (the thing you came to Sabah for), is on the opposite side of the region. The biggest choice here is time vs. money. The fastest way can be expensive, but it will save you a lot of time. The cheapest way is a little more complicated and requires more patience. But what is the best option?

Option 1: The Fastest (and Priciest) Route - Flying

The fastest way to cover the 300km is to fly from Kota Kinabalu (BKI) to Sandakan (SDK). The flight takes under an hour.

• Flights can start from RM 100 - RM 330 (approx. 18 EUR - 59 EUR), but can also be significantly higher.

This saves time but immediately eats a large chunk of your budget. From Sandakan, you still need to book a lodge transfer to the river.

Option 2: The Cheapest (and Longest) Route - The Public Bus

KK to Sukau Junction

You must go to the Kota Kinabalu North Bus Terminal (Inanam) - you will need a cheap Grab/taxi to get here from your hostel.

Catch the bus heading towards Sandakan or Semporna. Tell the vendor/driver you want to get off at Sukau Junction (the turn-off for the river lodges).

• The bus journey takes approximately 6 - 7 hours. Tickets start from RM 56 (approx. 10 EUR).

Sukau Junction to Your Lodge

There is no public bus from Sukau Junction down the local road to the river lodges (Sukau/Bilit villages). So, you must arrange a local transfer. 

Call your lodge/guesthouse ahead of time and book their transfer from Sukau Junction, as it will be much cheaper than a full transfer from Sandakan.

The Local Legend: You may get lucky and find a local van waiting, or you can try contacting a local driver legendary among backpackers, like Mr. Choy (who runs affordable shared transfers). We didn't get to meet the legend in person, but you will see this mysterious man's name plastered all over the internet.

(Note: Mr. Choy's service usually runs from Sandakan, but he is a great local resource to try contacting.)

The Recommended Route: Shared Minivan Transfer

The perfect compromise between time and money is a direct shared minivan/shuttle service from KK or Sandakan.

Many local operators run shuttles from KK to Sandakan/Sepilok that stop near the river. While slightly more expensive than the public bus, this is the easiest and least stressful option for a long journey.

Transfers from Sandakan start from around RM 85 (approx. 15 EUR) per person. Since KK is much farther, expect a higher price, but less hassle.

The River Safari

We had the greatest time staying in the Bornean rainforest and were lucky enough to see all of Borneo's Big 5 on our river safari (Orangutan, Proboscis Monkey, Pygmy Elephant, Rhinoceros Hornbill, and Estuarine Crocodile). In fact, on one day, our return home from the boat trip was actually delayed because a herd of Pygmy Elephants had started wandering around our campsite. 

I genuinely think that this is one of the coolest places that I have ever visited, and I look forward to returning to the wonderful Sabah. Make sure that any accommodation you book comes with the river safari- it's an absolute must-do.

See our article about the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre HERE

Best Budget-Friendly Places to Stay in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah (Hostels & Guesthouses)

 

Best Budget-Friendly Places to Stay in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah (Hostels & Guesthouses)

A Note on Experience: Kota Kinabalu (KK) is your gateway to the Borneo adventure, but the cheapest accommodation isn't always the most convenient. Let's break down exactly where you should stay to minimize transport costs and maximize access to the local food markets and island ferries.

The Golden Rule

The Central Business District in KK is sprawling, but if you're a budget traveler, your entire focus should be the area surrounding Gaya Street and the Filipino Market.

This location is within 15 minutes walking distance of Jesselton Point (where all the island ferries depart) and is the epicenter of local, cheap dining (especially the amazing night market seafood). 

There is also an abundance of 'warungs', which are essentially small, family-run businesses selling food and drinks. The food is often served buffet-style and is extremely cheap (around 3 RM per food item), and they even allow for takeaway boxes. We would load one up before every day trip for our lunch.

Expect the delightful chaos of a working market town, loud food vendors in the evening, and extreme heat & humidity. 

Top 3 Budget Accommodation Recommendations (The High-Value List)

We have sourced three options that cater to different needs, all highly rated and centrally located for maximum convenience.

Option 1: The Ultimate Social Hub (For Solo Travelers)

• Homy Seafront Hostel (Rating: 9.4 Exceptional)

• This hostel consistently wins awards for its social atmosphere and cleanliness. It features sea views that defy the low price and has excellent common areas for planning trips.

• Dorm beds start from RM 30 - RM 45 (approx. £5.50 - £8.00) per night.

The vibe is unmatched in this hostel - decent rooms with a really social common room. There is a PS4 there, too, along with some old games.

Option 2: The Clean & Quiet Choice (Capsule Security)

• Space Cap Hotel (Rating: 8.6 Excellent)

• Perfect for travelers who want privacy and security without paying for a full private room. The capsule format provides individual space, reliable Wi-Fi, and a quiet night's sleep. 

• Capsules start from $10 USD (approx. RM 47) per night.

Option 3: Best Overall Budget Location (The Classic Hostel)

• Faloe Hostel (Rating: 9.6 Superb)

• Faloe is celebrated for its wonderful staff and cozy atmosphere. It’s consistently ranked as one of the best overall hostels in Malaysia, offering a mix of dorms and private rooms for slightly higher comfort.

• Dorms start from RM 45 per night.

The Tourist Tax

Malaysia imposes a mandatory Tourism Tax of RM 10 per room, per night, for all foreign guests. This tax is often NOT included in the initial price shown on booking sites and must be paid in cash upon check-in to the accommodation provider. Factor this extra RM 10 into your nightly cost so that you don't get caught out!

Next Stop: Kinabatangan River

Now that your bed is secured, it's time to plan your escape from the city and head into the wild heart of Sabah. The Kinabatangan River, home of the Borneo orangutans and proboscis monkeys, is a fantastic next destination.

See our guide on how to get from Kota Kinabalu to the Kinabatangan River HERE

Erg Chigaga vs. Erg Chebbi: The Budget Traveler's Decision Guide (Where to Find the Real Sahara)

 

Erg Chigaga vs. Erg Chebbi: The Budget Traveler's Decision Guide (Where to Find the Real Sahara)

The Definitive Moroccan Sahara Question

If you've been reading guides online, you know the two desert names, but figuring out the real cost and planning headache for each is impossible. As travelers who prioritize the budget route and wilderness experience, this comparison cuts through the guesswork. We'll show you exactly how accessible (or inaccessible) each dune is, so you can pick the one that matches your wallet and your sense of adventure.

 

Direct Comparison: Access is the Key Difference

It's tempting to think all sand dunes are the same, but the truth is that the choice between Chebbi and Chigaga completely changes your budget and your travel itinerary. Here is the critical side-by-side view:

Accessibility: 

• Erg Chebbi is much easier. The paved road goes right up to the dunes' edge near Merzouga, so a regular coach or 2WD car can reach you there. There are also many more organised tours that can take you to Erg Chebbi.

• Erg Chigaga is harder. The paved road ends at M'Hamid; a 4x4 vehicle and a local Berber guide is mandatory for the final 60km (2-3 hour) off-road journey.

Remoteness/Vibe:

• If you want solitude, Erg Chigaga wins easily. The camps are minimal, and the silence is absolute. 

• Chebbi is more developed, with many clustered camps and more visible infrastructure. There are, however, many more options for luxury stays at Chebbi.

Budget Cost:

• Erg Chebbi is generally cheaper overall. The higher volume of tourists means intense competition among camps, driving prices down. 

• Chigaga has a Higher Base Cost because a certified 4x4 driver and vehicle are non-negotiable. The camps in Chigaga are very reasonable and offer some great experiences included in the price (usually camel rides and sandboarding), but the transfer will run you a pretty penny. 

See here how we travelled from the 'end of the road' to Erg Chigaga: HERE

Dune Size:

• Higher peaks (up to 160m) are found in Chebbi.

• Erg Chigaga holds the largest expanse of dunes in Morocco, with huge dunes up to 300m high.

If You Choose Erg Chebbi (The Convenient Route)

If convenience and a minimal planning headache are your winning factors, Erg Chebbi is the better choice.

• The Upside: You can take a direct bus from Marrakech or Fes right to Merzouga. It's the most straightforward path for a short itinerary. The high volume of camps means you get very competitive, low pricing.

• The Downside: Be prepared for high tourist traffic, and the feeling of being in a "desert resort" rather than the deep Sahara wilderness.

Why We Recommend Erg Chigaga (The Authentic Route)

We recommend Chigaga for any true adventurer. The higher cost is justified by the solitude.

• The 4x4 ride itself is part of the adventure. And the absolute silence under the stars once you get 60km from the nearest village is impossible to replicate in a more accessible dune system. The towering 300m dunes, too, are a sight to behold.

If Chigaga is your choice, start by conquering the hardest logistical step first: getting to M'Hamid El Ghizlane

Final Verdict & Commemoration

The choice is yours: convenience (Chebbi) or genuine wilderness (Chigaga). Having planned the challenging routes, we believe the added effort for Chigaga pays off with an unforgettable, untouched desert experience.

M’Hamid to Erg Chigaga: The Cheapest Independent Route (Avoid Overpaying for Sahara Treks)

 

M’Hamid to Erg Chigaga: The Cheapest Independent Route (Avoid Overpaying for Sahara Treks)

A Note on Experience: If you made it to M'Hamid, congratulations! You successfully used local transport to get to the very edge of the road. This guide focuses on the next critical step: avoiding the expensive, mass-market tour packages and arranging a reliable, budget-friendly trek directly with locals.

Route Overview: The End of the Paved Road

M’Hamid El Ghizlane is the final village before the true, wild desert begins. It is a really surreal feeling going from driving on the road to driving straight over rocks and sand dunes. It happens in an instant - the road leads directly into the off-road!

• The Single, Non-Negotiable Rule: The road officially ends here. The 60 km journey to the high dunes of Erg Chigaga is strictly 4x4 and driver country. The terrain is soft sand, large rocks, and unmarked trails. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt this drive with a rental car, motorbike, or without a local guide.

• The Cheapest Route: Independent Negotiation. To save money, your goal is to pay for only the transport and the basic camp stay, bypassing the expensive full-service tour packages sold in Marrakech, Fes, or even Ouarzazate.

The Budget Independent Package

The cheapest way to do this is to keep the services separate: negotiate the transport and the camp stay locally. Partner with Your Guesthouse Host.

Start with the owner of the Auberge or Guesthouse where you are staying in M'Hamid. These families are usually Berber and run small, legitimate desert camps themselves.

• Ask specifically for the "1-Night Budget Transfer and Camp Stay." You are paying for four things: The 4x4 transfer, dinner, an overnight stay in a basic tent, and breakfast the next morning.

• A reasonable, budget price for a 1-night, all-inclusive trip (excluding personal water and tips) should fall between €70 and €100 per person, depending on how many are in your group. The 2/3 hour drive into the desert is by far the most expensive part. Some companies charge per person, but you want to look for the ones that charge per car to split the costs.

The Budget Breakdown: Who to Pay & When

The biggest hidden cost in the desert is the driver's tip and supplies.

Expected Costs:

• 4x4 Transport (Negotiated Cost)
• Basic Camp Stay (Negotiated Cost)
• Water/Extra Supplies (Cost)

It is best to negotiate the full tour/transfer price first, and then budget a separate tip afterward. You should view the final tip (approx. 100 - 200 MAD) for the full 4x4 trip, as the final, necessary payment for their expertise and patience in ensuring your safety across the trackless Sahara.

Remember, the first step was getting here! To budget your full journey, see our previous guide on the bus and taxi costs HERE

The Erg Chigaga Experience

The moment you crest the first massive ridge and see the rolling sea of sand that is Erg Chigaga, you realize why the effort was worth it.

The dunes here are colossal, culminating in hills nearly 300 meters high. More importantly, the experience is defined by absolute silence. No car horns, no city lights, just the clearest, most star-drenched sky you will ever see.

Because it is less than 100km away from the Algerian border, Erg Chegaga has only been accepting tourists for the last 30 years or so. It is a real untouched gem and a must-see for every backpacker before it becomes a highly visited tourist spot like it's twin, Erg Chebbi.

How to Get from Ouarzazate to M’Hamid el Ghizlane (Bus, Taxi or Car Hire): The Budget Traveler’s Route Guide

  

How to Get from Ouarzazate to M’Hamid el Ghizlane (Bus, Taxi or Car Hire): The Budget Traveler’s Route Guide

So, you've soaked up the cinematic vibes of Ouarzazate, perhaps explored the Atlas Film Studios or the Kasbah. Now, the real adventure calls: the raw, untamed beauty of the Moroccan desert, specifically M'Hamid el Ghizlane, the true "Gateway to the Sahara."

But how do you get from the bustling city of Ouarzazate to this remote desert outpost without breaking your backpacker budget? Don't worry, we've got you covered. This isn't a straightforward route, but it's entirely manageable and incredibly rewarding.

[Disclosure: We believe in transparent travel. This guide contains affiliate links for transport and accommodation. We earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you book through these links, which supports our independent route research.]

How to Get There? Personal Car vs. Public Transport

A Quick Note on Experience: My girlfriend and I took this road trip ourselves to reach the Sahara, navigating the transition from the city of Ouarzazate right through the Draa Valley. Everything written here is based on those miles, the price of fuel, and the cost of a seat on a dusty Grand Taxi. This is your genuine, budget-first guide.

The first decision in Ouarzazate is control versus cost. While the bus/taxi combination is the cheapest, driving gives you complete freedom to stop and explore the Kasbahs and palm groves of the Draa Valley.

When planning this trip, I was told by locals that the drive to Zagora was safe, but the road deteriorates closer to M'Hamid. After driving the route myself, I can confidently say that Moroccan roads are excellent. I didn't see a single major pothole between Ouarzazate and Zagora. 

The road from Zagora to M'Hamid was perfectly fine, too. I would feel comfortable driving this section of the route, also.

However, the road ends at M'Hamid for a reason. To go any further, specifically toward the Erg Chigaga dunes, you absolutely need a local Berber driver and a proper 4x4. The terrain turns into extreme sand, rocks, and unmarked trails, where it is incredibly easy to get lost. Do not attempt that final desert push in a standard rental car.

Option 1: Renting a Car (Freedom & Cost Estimate)

Renting a car is the ideal choice if you are splitting the cost with 3-4 people or you prioritize time savings over budget.

Renting a small economy car in Ouarzazate is straightforward, with several major companies operating both at the airport and in the city center.

• Average Daily Price: You can find small economy cars starting from 15$ per day when booked in advance. We used Avis Budget, and ours was 18$ per day in October!

• When we rent cars, we usually like to pick the cheapest from the big providers because I've seen enough horror stories like people getting charged on their credit card weeks after they have gotten home from their trip.

• Budget is often the cheapest provider in niche places like Ouarzazate, and because they're owned by Avis, you don't have to worry about sneaky charges. The young driver surcharge is also usually much more reasonable than other companies.

Fuel prices fluctuate, but you should factor them into your budget.

• Approx. Petrol Price: Morocco fuel prices are currently around $1.30 - $1.50 USD/L in Oct 2025.

• The 252-kilometer drive takes approximately 4.5 to 5 hours of focused time, so you're looking at approximately $22-26 for petrol. Double it for a round trip.

• Road Safety Note: Avoid driving outside major towns after dark. Roads are unlit, and hazards (such as unlit donkeys or bicycles) are common.

Option 2: The Budget Traveler’s Route (Bus & Grand Taxi)

This is the cheapest way to get to M'Hamid, requiring one transfer in Zagora.

Step 1: The Official Bus Ouarzazate to Zagora

• Use CTM or Supratours. Both offer comfort, fixed pricing, and air conditioning (you'll need it). There's a reason that these companies are rated so highly for inter-city travel in Morocco

• Duration: The journey takes approximately 4 hours.

• Price: A single ticket costs around [50 - 70 MAD].

• Luggage Fee: Remember the non-negotiable [5 - 10 MAD] luggage fee for the hold.

Step 2: The Grand Taxi System

Upon arrival at the Zagora bus station, head straight for the Grand Taxi rank.

• Look for the large, usually beige or white, older Mercedes sedans.

• The price from Zagora to M'Hamid is based on 6 passengers. You pay for a single seat, approximately [35 - 50 MAD] per person. You must wait for the taxi to fill up before it leaves.

• The drive takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. Be prepared to wait an hour or more in Zagora for a full taxi.

The Grand Taxi is the quintessential budget backpacker transport in Morocco. It is a large, often decades-old Mercedes sedan licensed for intercity or long-haul regional routes.

Unlike a private cab, the system is designed as shared transport where you purchase a single seat, meaning the taxi will not depart until all six passenger seats (and sometimes a seventh, unofficially) are completely full.

While this requires patience and often a wait at the rank, paying for your individual seat is the absolute cheapest and most authentic way to travel long distances off the main bus lines. Seriously, something that you have to experience at least once.

Where to Stay in M’Hamid El Ghizlane

M’Hamid is small, and accommodation revolves around desert excursions. Look for the many family-run Auberges or Guesthouses.

If you book your stay with a reputable auberge, they can often help you secure a fair price for your onward desert trek.

The Real Destination: The Magic of Erg Chigaga

If M'Hamid is the door, Erg Chigaga is the Sahara's living room. We drove our rental car as far as we dared, met our local guide, and experienced something unforgettable.

There is complete silence under a sky so full of stars you'll forget what light pollution looks like. The dunes stretch as far as the eye can see, culminating in one massive dune that reaches nearly 300 meters high (almost 1,000 feet!).

See our article on how to get from M’Hamid El Ghizlane to Erg Chigaga HERE

Here's our comparison of Morocco's two most famous Ergs - Chigaga & Chebbi:
Click HERE